Once you have bought your piece of art, it is important to treat it with care and to remember that caring for art is an ongoing process. Not only is this art an investment, it is presumably also something of value to you, because you like it. With informed and correct handling it can remain in good condition for years to come. Educating yourself about how to protect your artwork is a must if you plan to continue collecting and investing in art.

Please Note: If your painting does get damaged, DO NOT attempt to fix it yourself. Take it to the place of purchase for a referral or look up a qualified conservator. Amateur repairs can reduce the value of your artwork drastically.

SOME BASIC INSTRUCTIONS Do not lean anything against the surface of a canvas. This may seem obvious, but it is something with one can do without paying much attention! It is very easy to rip, tear, or even scratch a painting, be it on canvas or paper. The best way to avoid accidents is to store your paintings away from anything that might press against the surface. Try not to lean paintings on one another when storing them. Separate them with pieces of cardboard to avoid damage.

Handling Art When handling works on paper, you should touch the surface as little as possible. When you have to touch it, make sure your hands are clean and dry. To lift it, use both hands, one on either side, to support the work and keep your fingers away from the image. When going through a portfolio or a stack of works on paper, slide the paper between the index and third finger rather than using your thumb. Thumbprints have a way of finding themselves on the edges! The jury is out on wearing gloves, which, some experts feel, can cause more damage as they are less sensitive than the hand. If you do decide to use gloves makes sure they are 100% cotton. (Latex gloves should only be used when handling sculpture, as they are non-slip).

Works executed in pastel and charcoals require extra care as the medium is easily smudged. It is also a dust magnet! As far as possible, keep works on paper framed with an acid-free mount, which minimises friction and static, and protects the art. Care should also be taken while handling prints, as their paper is easily stained with oils and moisture present in our skin.

Remember that fingerprints, and the grime they carry, are amongst the worst offenders when it comes to damage. It is also one of the toughest to reverse.

Keep your paintings out of direct sunlight. Over-exposure to sunlight, and, in particular, to UV rays, is one of the most common causes of damage to artwork. Even if your painting has a protective layer of varnish, it is still possible for it to crack, fade or bleed when subjected to bright sunlight. Our sunlight is particularly damaging, and can ruin artwork even with limited exposure.

This is true of all artwork. Canvas can become dry and paint can flake off and varnish can bleed. Wood can crack due to altering levels of humidity. Photographs DO fade and Paper, especially, if exposed to extreme heat or sunlight over long periods of time, can become brittle and crack and tear very easily. Mixed media is even more complicated as it uses myriad materials and different techniques at the same time.

Avoid subjecting your Artworks to fluctuating temperatures, and extreme changes in atmosphere. Extreme fluctuations in humidity and temperature count as amongst the most detrimental factors to the life of a work of art. Inconstancy in the atmosphere leads to accelerated aging, which can take many forms. For example, while humidity can cause mould and foxing, an overly dry room can cause the artwork to dry out. Either way, fluctuating temperatures can affect the canvas on a stretcher, becoming slack or too tight, which in turn affects the medium on the canvas.

Therefore take care to avoid exposing your art to excessive dryness, humidity, heat or cold. This means that your artwork should not be placed in excessively damp areas such as in a bathroom, kitchen or near any air conditioning.

Also, keep artwork away from direct sources of heat. If an artwork is placed too near a radiator, fireplace or heater, it can be at risk of heat damage. This can cause the paints and varnishes to age, causing bleeding, cracks, flaking and tears. In addition, heat can also cause photographs to buckle at the edges and bubble in the middle. In winter, as rooms can become over-heated, place a bowl of water near your heat source to prevent the air getting too dry.

Wood is particularly sensitive to temperature changes. When purchasing an artwork made of wood it is best to inquire whether the wood has been treated and whether it should be periodically oiled. However, some artists feel that, given its organic nature, changes in wood are natural and come with the territory so, if your piece does show slight signs of mortality and aging – like a deepening in colour – do not worry too much. This is giving it a patina, increasing its desirability. However, if huge splits and cracks appear they must be addressed. Remember however, that wood, bronze, stone etc are organic materials so any restoration must be done in a restrained manner so as not to alter the natural process of the work acquiring a patina of age.

Inert materials are also vulnerable to humidity. Metals may corrode or tarnish; stone and ceramics may lose water and crystallize and glass can produce salts and become encrusted.

Experts advise a steady temperature of around 70 degrees with a maximum humidity level of 70% and a minimum of 30% (the ideal humidity level being 50%). If this sounds complicated just remember that generally, artwork is best kept in similar temperature environments as for human comfort.

Protect your Artwork from common household pollutants. Dust is the most common of household pollutants that can cause damage to artwork. Textile artworks are particularly vulnerable and should be vacuumed very gently to remove dust. Glass covered surfaces should be cleaned gently with a soft cloth sprayed with window detergent. Avoid using the detergent sprayed cloth on wooden frames, and use a separate cloth to dust these. Artwork without a glass cover should not be cleaned with a cloth or feather dusters as they can catch on surfaces. It is best to use sable or badger-hair brushes, bought abroad.

Any smoke can cause a piece of artwork to discolour and turn yellow and the smell of smoke can easily be absorbed by a painting. Smoke and heat from an open fireplace will affect artwork. Avoid exposing artwork to open fires. If you must, make sure it is mounted at least 90cm above the fireplace.

It is best, also, to avoid positioning textile artworks in rooms with food odours, as textiles absorb smells. Moths will readily damage textiles. If there is an infestation of moths in your house, it is best to get them removed through fumigation. However, make sure that you remove your artwork before getting the place fumigated, as the chemicals themselves can damage your artwork.

Dealing with Waves on an artwork Waves or puckering on a canvas that has been kept rolled, or has loosened from its stretcher, can sometimes be dealt with by turning the work upside down and going over it lightly with a damp cloth. In the case of oils this can be a cloth dampened by linseed oil.

Please do NOT attempt this with paper! Paper waves are far more complex to deal with and have to go to a qualified restorer.

TRANSPORTING ART Framed Paintings: Be sure to put a piece of cardboard over the front to protect the canvas, and then put bubble wrap around it. Rough handling can damage both the painting and the frame, so pack it securely even if you are moving it a short distance.

If your painting is behind glass, criss-cross the glass with masking tape to strengthen it. This way, even if the glass does break, the pieces will remain in place for easy removal.

Best of all, after all these steps, have the painting crated – especially if it is being transported out of town. Professional packers will do this for you, for a relatively small sum of money.

 

 

Unframed Canvases: Most people use a tube (plastic or cardboard) to transport an unframed canvas. This is not the best option as there are many risks involved, but it is often the most convenient. So…if you are using this method roll it as loosely as possible with the painted surface on the outer side.

If you want to be extra careful purchase two tubes of different diameters. Roll your canvas around the smaller tube (painted side outward) and insert it into the larger one.

Do not use bubble wrap or any other plastic or paper while rolling the artwork as it can stick to the painting and/or leave an imprint.

Unroll the work as soon as possible.

N.B: Works on paper should never be rolled or placed in a tube. Paper is very fragile and rolling it may cause irreparable damage.

The other method by which to transport unframed oil paintings safely, is to place some wax paper on the front of the painting before you place the work between 2 layers of cardboard, foam or wood. Tape the cardboard securely. Remember that oil paintings have varnish on them and if the work is in a very hot area for a period of time, the varnish can become sticky.

To transport works on paper protect it with acid free tissue paper on both sides of the work. Place 2 layers of cardboard, or any other rigid material, on both sides of the art to prevent any bending. Tape around the outside of the cardboard to prevent any shifting.

N.B: Wrapping materials that come in direct contact with your work of art can cause damage. Some plastic and bubble wraps emit vapours which can potentially harm, so, it is not advisable to leave your artwork packed for too long.

Sculpture: Wrap your sculpture in a blanket or any other soft material before placing it in an appropriately sized box. Place additional packing materials inside the box – foam pellets, bubble wrap, packing peanuts, newspaper, tissue paper etc - the more the better, as it will fill vacant spaces and act as a shock absorber. Seal the package securely.

Storage If you are not displaying your works on paper, the best way to store them is in a chest used for architectural drawing and blueprints or another specially designed case that protects them from humidity, light and dirt.

Acid-free folders or portfolios can also be used within such chests or cases, but must always be placed flat or horizontally. If you are storing several works in one drawer or folder, interleave them with acid-free tissue paper. Normal plastic sleeves are not recommended for storing paper artworks.

A stable storage environment is very important, and fluctuations in temperature and humidity, particularly in the short term, must be minimised. The best environment for the storage of artworks is a cool, dry one with good air circulation. For this reason, if your art is very valuable, store it in a sealed, air-conditioned room, with de-humidifiers which are regularly checked for upkeep. The paintings should be checked, and dusted regularly.

Do not cover paintings with plastic for long periods of time. If there is humidity in the air, they may start to grow mold. Cotton sheets are best for keeping dust away.

Make sure you do not lean paintings against one another, without some protective padding in between.

Ceramics and Glass Store and display your ceramics and glass in a secure place. This may sound like common sense, but is sometimes overlooked. Given that we live in an earthquake zone, it is important that ceramics and glass are not put on shaky shelving. Even hanging on walls is to be avoided, as we ourselves have had valuable ceramic plates come crashing down during an earthquake. Also, make sure that you do not display breakable art in areas that people are likely to bump into.

Keep out of sunlight. Most glass and ceramics will not fade without prolonged exposure, but don’t take chances by leaving them in bright light for long periods of time, especially if they are hand-painted.

Handle ceramics very carefully. If you grab a small protruding detail on your vase, plate, or other ceramic or glass piece, it may break off. Hold the whole piece firmly and carefully, and preferably by the base.

Try to avoid putting liquid in your glass pieces. Though people usually don’t use art glass for this purpose, if you do choose to put a liquid into your glass piece, do not leave it in for a long period of time. It is likely to leave a stain. Also, remember that putting an extremely hot or cold liquid into your glass may cause it to crack.

Wash your glass carefully, and always by hand – never in a dishwasher! Strong items can be washed gently (if absolutely necessary) in lukewarm water with a bit of gentle dish soap and a soft rag and air dried. If you have any doubt about the structure of your glass object, do not immerse it in water. Just wipe gently with a damp cloth.

Do not display ceramic plates on metal prongs. Many people make this mistake when displaying ceramics. Over time, this can damage the surface of your ceramic piece, even chipping or cracking it.

Do not immerse porous ceramics like earthenware in liquid. They can be washed gently (see the glass washing method above), but not left to soak as they absorb water. This can cause many different problems (cracking, water stains deep in the piece, etc.).

Bronze Keep bronze away from extreme heat, cold or humidity. A sudden change in atmosphere might change the color of the surface of the bronze (called the patina). You must try and preserve the patina, as this is part of the beauty and value of the material.

Bronzes do not usually need cleaning, apart from dusting with a soft cloth. You may vacuum your bronze, and if it is absolutely necessary, you can spot wash a dirty section with mild soap and distilled water.

Avoid abrasive products while cleaning the surface. Bronzes are strong enough to last through the centuries if you keep them out of harm’s way, and the surface patina will age nicely if left alone, adding to the piece’s value. Do not alter this surface by using any cleaners that remove the color or scrape into the patina.

For any repairs, call a professional. Do not attempt to glue or solder a piece yourself, because a shoddy repair can decrease the value of your piece. Also, if you observe any serious changes in the patina, contact a professional for advice.

Stone Carved stone can usually be thought of as any piece of stone which is cut in three dimensions to form an artwork. Marble, granite, limestone and sandstone are the most common stones that artists work with, but each of these varies substantially in appearance and behavior.

Even though stone is considered one of the most durable materials, stone sculptures may decay or be damaged due to several factors, including environmental decay. Having said that, dirt on the surface of a stone sculpture, especially one stored outdoors, is not usually a problem and even functions as a protective layer in most cases.

If, however, your stone pieces are antiques, they then require stable, controlled environments for display. In such situations, you will need to seek the advice of an expert.

The surfaces of carved stones should not be cleaned regularly, as the action of cleaning can cause accelerated deterioration (especially to sandstones). Also, repeated handling of stone sculptures can also lead to the formation of stains from the oils present in skin. If it is absolutely necessary, cleaning should be carried out by a professional conservator, using gentle means such as bristle brushes and water. Detergents and other chemical agents should be avoided at all costs.